A guide to fragrance
At Godshot studio, we are on a continuous olfactive exploration.
We seek out unique fragrances from brands all over the world that align with our concept. We’ve curated a collection that reflects the diversity of human experience – scents that challenge, provoke emotions, and awaken dormant memories.
Fragrance families
At a very basic level, fragrances can be split into four familiar groups: amber, floral, woody, and fresh. Woody and amber fragrances tend to have more depth and warmth, whereas fresh and floral fragrances are often more playful, powdery, airy.
The fresh family is different than the others in that it describes a feeling more than a collection of notes. Fresh fragrances can be fruity or citrusy, or smell more naturally refreshing – green and crisp, or oceanic.
There are a number of other groups to help further clarify scent profiles that contain elements from more than one of the groups mentioned above. These more precise categories are debated regularly, with new groups being added from time-to-time.
Fragrance composition
Fragrances often have qualities to varying degrees beyond a single attribute, and can evolve through different attributes throughout the day depending on which notes sit on which dimension of the scent profile – the top (or head), the heart (or middle), or the base.
Top notes are a first impression experienced immediately after spritzing. They are highly individual and often the most unique aspect of a fragrance. Usually a high concentration of small, light molecules, top notes can be powerful and highly emotive. They are capable of giving a fragrance olfactive qualities beyond simple scent, for example they can induce a ‘feeling’ of sparkly or oceanic or airy. However, these notes are generally short-lived, and usually evaporate within 15 to 30 minutes.
Heart notes emerge, with varying degrees of overlap, as the top notes begin to evaporate. These notes form the core of the fragrance and are more complex and enduring than the top notes. They contribute to the overall character of the scent and often act as a bridge between the initial burst of fragrance and the deeper, more intense base notes. Heart notes provide a fuller and more rounded aromatic experience as they develop, lasting for several hours.
Base notes form the foundation and longevity of the fragrance. They emerge after the top and heart notes have evaporated and tend to be rich, deep, and long-lasting. Base notes are made up of larger, heavier molecules that evaporate more slowly, ensuring that the fragrance remains detectable for an extended period. These notes anchor the fragrance, providing a lingering presence that can last for hours or even the entire day.
The interplay between these three layers – top, heart, and base notes – creates the dynamic evolution of a fragrance over time. Perfumers are able to influence the strength of a note and the degree of longevity by carefully selecting ingredients. For example, an alcohol-based component typically evaporates more quickly than an oil-based ingredient. This evolving journey is generally difficult to decipher from simply examining a scent profile, and therefore it is advised to sample a fragrance on the skin for a day to truly understand it. We have testers available for every fragrance at our studio.
Fragrance classification
Fragrance can be classified by the concentration of aromatic compounds present within them. Concentration levels play a crucial role in determining the strength, longevity, and overall intensity of a fragrance. As a general rule: the higher the concentration, the more intense and longer lasting the fragrance.
Parfum, Extrait de Parfum, or XdP: 15-40%
Parfum contains the highest concentration of aromatic compounds, resulting in a luxurious, intense, and long-lasting scent that can linger on the skin for many hours, often throughout the day or even overnight. Only a small amount is needed for a noticeable and persistent fragrance.
Eau de Parfum (EdP): 10-20%
Eau de Parfum strikes a balance between longevity and versatility. It offers a potent scent that lasts for several hours, making it suitable for both daytime and evening wear. While it is not as intense as parfum, it provides a noticeable and captivating fragrance presence.
Eau de Toilette (EdT): 5-15%
Eau de Toilette offers a lighter and more casual fragrance experience. It has a moderate longevity, with the scent generally lasting for a few hours. EdT scents are often well-balanced and suitable for various occasions, providing a pleasant and subtle aura.
Eau de Cologne (EdC): 2-5%
Eau de Cologne is known for its invigorating and refreshing qualities. It features a lower concentration of aromatic compounds, resulting in a lighter scent that fades relatively quickly. EdC fragrances often have a bright and uplifting character.
Eau Fraîche: 1-3%
Eau Fraîche offers the lightest concentration of fragrance compounds. It provides a fleeting burst of scent that dissipates quickly. This type of fragrance is designed for a subtle and transient fragrance experience.
Fragrance concentration levels influence the overall impact and staying power of a perfume. When selecting a fragrance, considering the concentration level is essential to ensure that it aligns with the desired intensity and duration of the scent experience. Almost all of the fragrances we’ve sourced are classed as Eau de Parfum or higher.
Index
123
001
003
101
103
202
301
402
501
601
801
902
A
Amber
Ami Amie
Amuse Air
Angel Dust
Art Life
Azalai
B
Bark Bout
Bergamot
Blean
Botany
C
Cannabis
Capri
Caramel Days
Chinese Tobacco
Chronic
Continental
D
Dark Rum
Dreamland
F
Fantôme de Maules
Female Christ
FL/2018
Floral
Forest Riot
FR/2018
Fruity
G
Gorse
Goudh
Gourmand
I
In Love With The Cocos
Invisible Post
K
Kasbah
L
La Habana
Leather
Leather + Pine
M
Mistpouffer
Moonmilk
O
Oakmoss
OR/2018
Orange Crush
P
Parfum 1
Passport Amour
Pegwell
Purple Haze
R
Rainbow Bar
Reculver
Richborough
S
Saint Rémy
Samphire
Sand Service
Santalum
Silphium
SN/2020
St John
St Paul’s
Strawberry
Sugardaddy
Summer Seizure
T
The High Road
Thirsty
Thumbsucker
Tobacco + Musk
V
Vanilla CEO
Vetiver
Villa Nellcôte
W
Walpole
WD/2018
WF/2020
Woodland Rose
Workaholic
Y
Yippee Ki-yay